This fabulous place is one of my favourite world cities – I’ve visited a few times now, and there always seems more to explore. It’s almost impossible to keep up with Tokyo’s progress: a city that is ever building, updating and innovating. As the neon façades grow higher, the temples and parks are carefully respected, maintaining quiet refuges within the city. The latest trends and fashions can be found in quirky cafés and pop-culture clothing, while centuries-old rituals are still valued in the training halls of the sumo and under the tiered roofs of Tokyo’s tranquil shrines. I’d recommend 4 or 5 nights here to be able to get under the skin of the city.
Where to stay?
Tokyo has numerous different districts, and most of them offer a range of accommodation. I prefer to stay in Ginza - for me you really feel like you’re in the heart of the action here. There are the most amazing buildings, high end boutiques and department stores and numerous fab restaurants and bars. But under the railway tracks there’s a warren of traditional Japanese inns (called izakaya) where you can feast on fabulous dishes alongside native Tokyoites and it won’t cost you a fortune. Another area worth considering as a base for your stay is Asakusa – a more traditional area of the city and home to the famous Sensoji Temple. It’s close to the river (from where you can take river cruises to other parts of the city) and there are great souvenir shopping and eating options in the streets around the temple.
What to do.
If you’re visiting Tokyo for the first time, you should definitely do a city tour that will take in some of the highlights and give you a good sense of the city’s geography. Once you’ve done a city tour, I’d suggest exploring by yourself – Tokyo has a very efficient and extensive subway system and it’s really easy to get around. Below are a few of my recommendations.
Visit Meiji Jingu shrine in Harajuku.
This is one of Tokyo's busiest sights but an oasis of calm in the early morning. From here wander through the trendy shopping streets of Harajuku. Be prepared to see teenage girls swanning around in a range of different costumes -this is where you’ll see cos-play in action! Wander up Ometesando-dori where there are upmarket boutiques aplenty. Then head south to Shibuya for morning coffee and people watching at the famous Hachiko pedestrian crossing.
Embrace Sumo. Sumo wrestling originated in ancient times as a performance for the gods and is the unofficial national sport of Japan. You can experience this fascinating sport up close by watching a Sumo training on a tour to a real Sumo stable. Or, if your dates are right, visit a live tournament – there are 3 tournaments in Tokyo each year in January, May and September.
Visit the food hall in a department store.
Go to the ground floor of any Japanese department store and you’ll find yourself in a modern-day temple to gastronomy with an amazing array of foodie delights - all presented beautifully and with flair as you’d expect in Japan. If you’re watching the yen, it's a great idea for a good value lunch. You'll find everything here from sushi and tempura to tempting cakes and desserts.
Get lost in Shinjuku.
This is the biggest and busiest district in the city, with the world’s busiest train station (with over 200 exits). The area lights up at night with a barrage of neon lights and screens which makes for quite a sight, but there’s plenty to do in Shinjuku before the sun goes down, including Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden – one of Tokyo’s oldest and most pleasant parks. And there are several department stores and malls if you fancy a bit of shopping. On the quirky side, Shinjuku is home to the famous moving 3d cat billboard and a life size statue of Godzilla which sits on top of the Gracery Hotel.
Visit TeamLab Borderless.
This is a spectacular interactive digital art museum that has galleries of immersive and surreal installations. The light shows are amazing, and the exhibits change and move between rooms - so that if you go into a room and go back to that room 10 minutes later you’ll see a different work of art. Allow 2-3 hours for your visit and you’ll need to book your tickets well in advance if you’re in Tokyo in high season.
Experience quirky café culture.
There’s all manner of themed cafés and restaurants in Tokyo – from outlets where you’ll be served by French maids to animal cafés where you can pet cats, hedgehogs, owls or goats. There are cafés celebrating Harry Potter, Peter Rabbit, Shaun the Sheep, Pokemon and Alice in Wonderland and where the food is decorated accordingly (don’t worry about E-numbers here). Or you can visit one of the cafés which have turned creating a café latte into a 3d work of art. Yes, it’s all a bit bizarre, but it’s so Japanese!
Here's the design that they did of my dog at Hat Coffee in Asakusa. Only 2d because apparently he has too much black to be created in foaming froth!
Get one of the best views in Tokyo.
Tokyo Skytree is an iconic feature of Tokyo’s skyline – and it tends to be busy year-round. You can purchase skip the queue tickets here which usually come at a discounted price. Completed in 2012, it's the second tallest structure on earth after the Burj Khalifa in Dubai. There are two observation decks, Tembo Deck (350m) and Tembo Galleria (450m). If the weather is good, get yourself up to the Galleria level as you might just be able to see Mount Fuji in the distance.If you're watching the yen, you can get a great view of Tokyo for free from the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, but it's not open every day so you need to check.
Explore Yanesen.
This is part of Tokyo's old downtown — a collection of neighbourhoods that survived war and disasters when much of the city didn't. It's known for its friendly vibe, retro charm and narrow byways full of small shops, bars, and restaurants. I spent an enjoyable afternoon wandering around here on my last visit to Tokyo and it's a welcome change from the full-on frenzy of the city. Make sure you visit Nezu Shrine – it’s a very peaceful spot and is one of the oldest shrines in Tokyo.
Take a wander down Cat Street and have a drink at the Cat Cafe, where you can decorate your very own Maneki Neko. Here are the works of art we created in November.
As you can guess, I’m a massive fan of Japan. You can read more about my recent travels in my Japan Journal. And if you’re ready to start planning your trip to this fabulous destination, please do get in touch.
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