MY JOURNEY THROUGH PERU.

A Return After 30 Years This trip to Peru was not my first—it was a return after nearly 30 years. My first visit left such a strong impression that I always knew I would come back one day, and finally I did. What amazed me most was how familiar some things felt, yet how much had changed. The country seemed more connected to the world now, with tourism playing a big role, but the landscapes, traditions, and sense of history were as powerful as ever. This journey took me from the coast to the mountains, across valleys, ancient ruins, and finally into the rainforest—each step adding a new layer to my memories of Peru.

Lima: Bohemian Barranco Every trip to Peru begins in Lima, and I based myself in Barranco, the city’s bohemian neighbourhood. It felt immediately welcoming, full of art, music, and a laid-back charm. The streets were alive with murals and colonial mansions converted into galleries, cafés, and bars. Evenings meant pisco sours in buzzing restaurants, while during the day I wandered along the coastal cliffs for sweeping views of the Pacific. Barranco gave me a more intimate, soulful introduction to the city—a mix of creativity, history, and coast that perfectly set the tone for the journey.

Arequipa: The White City Flying south to Arequipa, I was greeted by the sight of volcanoes rising dramatically above the city. Known as the “White City” for its sillar stone buildings, Arequipa felt elegant and calm compared to Lima. I loved wandering through the Santa Catalina Monastery, with its brightly painted courtyards and quiet corners that felt like a world within a world. And there are numerous Baroque churches dotted around the city. The main square – Plaza de Armas - is impressive. With its huge cathedral running one length of the square and pleasant gardens – this is where the Arequipeños come to socialise.

Colca Valley & Canyon: Condors Overhead

From Arequipa, I made my way into the Colca Valley, a place of breathtaking landscapes and deep tradition. The terraced hillsides stretched endlessly, villages dotted the valley floor, and the canyon itself plunged dramatically below. The highlight was sitting on a rock in prime position at Cruz del Cóndor, and watching enormous Andean condors rise on the morning thermals, gliding effortlessly above the cliffs. One obligingly perched quite close – and even I was able to get a decent photo!

I stayed at Colca Lodge, which felt like a retreat woven into the valley itself. With natural hot springs beside the river and stunning views all around, it was the perfect place to pause and connect with the beauty of the Andes.

Sacred Valley: Villages and Ancient Traditions Next came the Sacred Valley, where the Andean spirit seemed to run strongest. Each village offered something different: Pisac with its market and sweeping Inca terraces (and where we were lucky enough to be there for a local festival where it seemed that the whole town had turned out to celebrate in colourful costumes); Ollantaytambo with its monumental Inca walls still supporting lived-in homes, and Chinchero with its weaving traditions and wide-open views. The landscapes shifted constantly - fertile plains, winding rivers, and rugged peaks surrounding it all. We visited a small mountain village and were introduced to a local community whose way of life is still rooted in Inca tradition. They prepared a lovely lunch for us, and we participated in a ceremony honouring Pachamama (Earth Mother), the goddess who represents Nature and who is so important to Peruvian tradition.

My stay at Sol y Luna made the experience even more special. This was my favourite hotel of the trip. Surrounded by lush gardens filled with flowers and sculptures, the hotel felt both luxurious and deeply connected to its setting. Waking up there, with the Sacred Valley spread out beyond the windows, was nothing short of magical.

Machu Picchu: The Incomparable Even after all these years, finally returning to Machu Picchu was surreal. It’s a lot more crowded than when I first visited, when you could wander around more or less wherever you wanted. Now there are set routes and you have to arrive at set times. But even with so many people the views across the ruins with the mountain backdrop is utterly spectacular – and it’s possible to find a quiet spot to take it all in. The way the citadel sits in harmony with its surroundings makes it feel almost otherworldly. It was every bit as awe-inspiring as I remembered—perhaps even more so.

Cuzco: Layers of History Cuzco was the perfect place to let the journey sink in. The city is built on layers of history—Inca foundations topped by colonial churches, narrow cobblestone alleys leading to grand plazas. You can spend hours wandering around the city - although the steep roads can be challenging at times, what with the altitude! And perched on the hills above the city is the impressive site of Sacsayhuaman - one of the Inca's most sacred ceremonial sites with fab views of the city stretching out below. Sipping a pisco sour on a cafe balcony overlooking the main square was great for people-watching - and was made more interesting by the fact that multiple groups were practising their marching moves for Independence Day celebrations that would take place a few days later. Cuzco was both vibrant and deeply historic, and it felt like the soul of Peru.

The Southern Amazon: A Final Adventure The final chapter of my journey took me east into the Amazon, where I stayed at Refugio Amazonas. Arriving there after the mountains felt like entering another world entirely - lush, dense, and alive with sound. Days began early, often before sunrise, as we set out along forest trails or by boat. One of the most unforgettable experiences was watching hundreds of macaws gather at a clay lick, their vivid colours flashing against the red clay as they squabbled and fed. The jungle was full of surprises: monkeys swinging through the canopy, the calls of unseen birds, and the endless hum of life all around. Staying in the lodge, surrounded by rainforest, gave me a sense of connection to nature I hadn’t felt anywhere else on the trip.

Reflections Returning to Peru after 30 years was both nostalgic and eye-opening. Each place gave me something unique: Barranco offered creativity, Arequipa offered elegance, Colca Valley offered wonder, the Sacred Valley offered connection, Machu Picchu offered awe, Cuzco offered energy, and the Amazon offered raw, untamed beauty. Together, they created a journey that felt complete - one that reminded me why I had fallen in love with Peru all those years ago and why it started my love affair with South America.

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