INTRODUCTION TO SRI LANKA.

Sri Lanka, often described as the "Pearl of the Indian Ocean," is a small island with a fabulous range of experiences packed into its lush, teardrop-shaped borders. From ancient cities and misty highlands to tropical beaches and wild jungles, it offers a compelling blend of culture, nature, and adventure. I’ve been here twice and am hoping to go back for a third visit.

The main draw for many people is the Cultural Triangle, an area that holds some of the most significant archaeological and religious sites in South Asia. The ancient capitals of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa reveal sprawling ruins of once-mighty kingdoms. I have to say that, even though Anuradhapura is one of the most sacred sites in Sri Lanka, I preferred Polonnaruwa – it’s more recent (the site only dates from the 10th century!) the buildings here were more intact, so it was easier to visualize how it would have looked hundreds of years ago.

On my first visit to Sri Lanka, I admired Sigirya rock fortress from afar – it’s visible from quite far away, and I didn’t think I’d make it up to the top.

But on my second visit, I did attempt the climb – wow, it’s tough. And I only made it halfway to the Lion’s Paw before my legs turned to jelly! On the positive side, it did spur me on to go on a diet when I returned to the UK.

My favourite site in the area is definitely the Dambulla Cave Temple, carved into a massive granite outcrop, with a series of richly painted cave shrines that have served as a sacred refuge for over 2,000 years. There are amazing murals and hundreds of serene Buddha statues – it’s a really atmospheric place.

South of the triangle lies Kandy, the last royal capital of Sri Lanka and home to the sacred Temple of the Tooth Relic, one of Buddhism’s most revered sites. There’s a daily ceremony where the relic is paraded around the temple to much fanfare. Kandy is a pleasant enough city to visit, with its lake, markets and Botanical Gardens – but I found it a bit sprawling for my liking. It’s not really the kind of place where you can wander around exploring – you’ll need to use one of the numerous tuk-tuks.

From Kandy, the journey climbs into the cool, verdant hill country, where the landscape transforms into sweeping tea plantations and cloud-kissed peaks. You can do this journey by travelling on what must be the slowest train in the world. You pass through beautiful scenery, and it’s supposed to be one of the most scenic train journeys in Asia, but it does seem to go on forever. Up in Hill Country there are towns like Nuwara Eliya—dubbed "Little England" for its colonial charm and Ella which are pleasant to visit. A stay in this area though is all about chilling in beautiful surroundings and away from the heat. And there are numerous tea plantations to visit if that’s your thing.

The scenery is beautiful in this part of the world. I took the photo below early in the morning from the grounds of my hotel.

And then there are Sri Lanka’s national parks. Yala is famous for its elusive leopards, while Udawalawe and Minneriya offer spectacular elephant sightings, especially during the dry season’s "Gathering" at Minneriya, one of the largest wild elephant congregations in the world. Wilpattu, with its quiet forested landscapes and natural lakes, offers a more off-the-beaten-path safari experience. And it’s definitely worth considering Gal Oya – I’ve not yet been here, but it’s top of the list for my third visit – this is where you can see herds of elephants swimming across a lake to an island in the middle. It looks amazing. Take a look at this short video on Youtube.

Just a word of warning about wildlife viewing in Sri Lanka if you’ve been on safari to Africa. During peak season, parks get very crowded, and it can turn into the wacky races, with drivers not respecting the space of the animals. This is particularly true in Yala, the country’s largest national park. Although I did get to see a leopard here (yes, that's a leopard in the undergrowth!) I did find the experience less than ideal.

My advice would be to choose alternative parks that are less crowded – for example, Wilpattu does have a leopard population. and Udawalawe doesn’t make it onto many standard itineraries – despite its fab scenery and its proximity to an elephant rehabilitation centre (ethically run). I visited Minneriya on my last trip to Sri Lanka, and I really enjoyed the experience there – not too many jeeps, loads of elephants and lovely scenery  - but it was low season.

And then there are the beaches—with their golden sands and swaying palms. The south coast, especially around Mirissa, Hiriketiya, and Tangalle, is ideal from December to April, with calm seas, surf spots, and beachside cafes perfect for lazy days. You can go whale watching of visit a nearby turtle sanctuary. The west coast, including Bentota and the historic city of Galle with its UNESCO-listed Dutch fort, are also perfect to visit at this time of year.

I really enjoyed my time in Galle and enjoyed wandering around its cobbled streets lined with colonial-era buildings, chic cafes, art galleries, and boutique hotels. When you ask a Sri Lankan where the best beaches are on the island, they usually recommend the East Coast. The weather here is good from May to September. Arugam Bay is a magnet for surfers, while Passikudah and Nilaveli near Trincomalee boast some of the island’s calmest, clearest waters for swimming and snorkelling.  It’s less developed here and there are fewer hotels - but there are some lovely properties worth considering.

I couldn’t write an article on Sri Lanka without mentioning the food – which is absolutely delicious. From the ubiquitous “hoppers” - rice flour pancakes in a bowl shape, often served for breakfast with a fried egg at the bottom to “rice and curry”. This isn’t a single dish but a daily ritual and cultural cornerstone, with numerous variations. Served with fragrant rice, a typical Sri Lankan curry spread includes a variety of vibrant accompaniments: spiced lentils (parippu), coconut-rich vegetable curries, stir-fried greens, tangy pickles, and sometimes slow-cooked meats or seafood simmered in layers of spices and coconut milk. Plus the seafood in Sri Lanka is outstanding – I enjoyed some of the most delicious tiger prawns on both my visits – simply char-grilled over an open flame and served with spicy chutneys and vegetable curry side dishes.

A final word about the people. Warm, welcoming, and generous in spirit, Sri Lankans are proud of their heritage and eager to share it with visitors. Wherever you travel, you’ll find them genuine, helpful and hospitable.

If you’re thinking of a trip to this fantastic country, do get in touch and let’s get planning. And if you'd like to combine a touring holiday here with a beach in a different destination, it's really easy to add on time in the Maldives at the end of the trip.