India is home to the majestic Bengal tiger, an apex predator that roams the country's lush forests and national parks. For wildlife enthusiasts, spotting a Bengal tiger in its natural habitat is a thrilling experience. Seeing a tiger in the wild has been on my Bucket List for years, and last month I finally flew to Central India in search of this elusive beast.
There are many different national parks to choose from, and I spent quite a bit of time researching tiger densities and the data on sightings. I also discussed the pros and cons of the various parks with my supplier contact, who is a specialist in Central Indian parks and has up-to-date information on where the best sightings have been. Armed with this information, I decided to visit Kanha and Tadoba. Kanha was the inspiration for Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book and is famous for its picturesque meadows and healthy tiger population. Tadoba is home to over 100 tigers, making it one of the best places to spot these majestic big cats in the wild. Unlike more touristy reserves, Tadoba offers a more raw and immersive jungle experience. And some of the roads were certainly extremely bumpy. Tadoba is also home to other wildlife such as sloth bears, leopards and wild dogs.
I was well aware that, even though I’d done all the research, it was far from certain that I’d get to see tigers. I spend 3 nights/2 full days in both national parks and opted for 2 game drives a day – 8 in total – in the hope that I’d get to see one of the stripey beasts. So, I was very relieved to see a tigress on the afternoon drive of my first day in Kanha. Although she was quite far away, at least I hadn’t come all that way to come up empty handed. The scenery is very pleasant and varied in Kanha, with meadows changing to forested areas throughout the park. And by the end of the first day, as well as spotting my first tiger, I’d also got to see monkeys, deer and peacocks.
On the morning of my second day, I got to see a magnificent male tiger up close, walking along the side of the road. I was so excited, I completely fluffed taking the photo – so you’ll have to take my word for it. He was only there for 30 seconds, and by the time I’d got my act together, he’d strolled back into the forest. But seeing him so close literally brought tears to my eyes.
I stayed at a fab lodge very near Kanha, called Shergarh. It’s very small and family-run so it’s got a lovely friendly, house party atmosphere - and everyone sits around chatting in the evenings about what they have (and haven’t seen) and their hopes for the following day. And the food was delicious – home cooked Indian dishes that were truly delicious. As it turns out, I didn’t see another tiger in Kanha on either of my game drives the following day – just a brief glimpse of a male leopard crossing the road.
Then I was off to Tadoba, a 6½ hour drive away. I was staying in a larger, more luxurious lodge here called the Bamboo Forest Lodge. I had an amazing room with its own garden, complete with swing and day bed. The décor was very distinctive and “last days of the Raj” – but it appealed to me.
My first day’s game drives netted 2 tiger sightings – a mother and her 2 young female cubs. On both occasions, they were quite far away, but it was great to be able to watch them interact through binoculars. In the afternoon I was also lucky enough to see a small family of sloth bears scuttling across the road – a mamma bear with her 2 cubs.
But it was on the morning of my second day in Tadoba that we struck gold. An absolutely gorgeous young tigress strolling along the middle of the road, bold as brass and completely unfazed by the jeep activity around her. It was an amazing close encounter that went on for about 20 minutes. Utterly magical. No luck on my afternoon game drive that day, but I was still basking in the glow of what I’d seen in the morning.
Would I recommend a holiday to India to spot tigers? Absolutely, 100%. I’d suggest combining a couple of national parks with touring elsewhere in India so that the holiday isn’t just about tigers (in case you don’t strike it lucky). I went on from Central India to Tamil Nadu to tour around this fascinating state, visiting amazing temples and historic towns. Blog post to follow on my travels there. But you could travel elsewhere. With two very distinctive parts to my holiday, I felt like I’d been away much longer than I actually had – it was as if I’d had 2 different trips.
The one thing I would say is that it’s completely different from an African safari. In Africa, you’re usually driving across vast plains dotted with wildlife. And if you don’t get to see any of the Big Cats on a game drive, you’ll see elephants, giraffes and zebras at the very least. Tigers are solitary creatures, usually roaming around by themselves and spending most of their time in the forest – so you really do have to search for them. You won’t see a group sitting down obligingly in an open area. So, you need to make sure you’re with a knowledgeable guide who knows the movements of the tigers (they are creatures of habit and have their own territory) and can anticipate where they’re likely to be.
If a trip to India to see tigers is on your Bucket List, do get in touch, and let’s get planning the perfect itinerary for you.
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