This fabulous place is one of my favourite world cities – I’ve visited 8 times, and it always feels like coming home. It’s a full-blooded, many-sided, Latin American metropolis. Buenos Aires can feel like many different cities overlapping, but everywhere, there’s an ambiance to the city that’s hard to define – that makes it a fascinating place to visit. Don't be tempted just to spend a couple of nights before moving on elsewhere - you'll regret it! I’d recommend at least 4 or 5 nights here to be able to get under the skin of the city.
Where to stay?
Buenos Aires has several different districts, each with its own distinctive look and feel. My firm recommendation would be to stay in the Palermo Viejo neighbourhood in the north of the city. It’s one of the most charming, vibrant and beautiful districts to be found in any Latin American city. Its cobblestoned streets are lined with plane trees and low-rise early-19th-century houses. There are fabulous restaurants and bars and chic boutiques, as well as some lovely boutique hotels. I always stay here because of its unique village atmosphere, and you can walk out of your hotel in the evening with myriad restaurants a mere stroll away. If you’re looking for larger, multi-national style hotels, you’ll find these in the downtown area. And there are some bells & whistles grand hotels in Puerto Madero and Recoleta.
What to do.
If you’re visiting Buenos Aires for the first time, you should definitely do a city tour that will take in most of the highlights and give you a good sense of the city’s geography. A standard city tour will take in the colourful La Boca dockland district, the historic area of San Telmo, upmarket Recoleta, the gentrified dock area of Puerto Madero as well as downtown and the Plaza de Mayo with the famous Casa Rosada where Eva Peron used to address the crowds. Once you’ve done a city tour, I’d suggest exploring by yourself – and below are a few of my recommendations.
Spend time in Palermo.
This area is quite extensive with sub-divisions like Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho. Explore the cobbled streets and leafy parks, take in the colourful street art, or just sit at a pavement café and take in the atmosphere. Visit the Japanese Gardens or get your culture fix at the MALBA art gallery. Palermo is far and away my favourite part of the city.
Visit Recoleta at the weekend.
This is where you’ll find the cemetery where Eva Peron is buried, but it’s a lovely area with some beautiful belle epoque buildings, and on Saturdays and Sundays there’s an amazing handicraft market with hundreds of stalls. It’s an excellent place for original souvenirs and gifts. Whilst you’re here, take a stroll around the extensive Botanical Gardens which are close by.
Eat at a Parrilla.
The steak in Argentina is absolutely delicious and you’ll be spoilt for choice in terms of steak houses as they’re everywhere in the city. If you are staying in the Palermo neighbourhood, it’s definitely worth booking a table at Don Julio – it’s an iconic restaurant. It’s not grand or fancy, but porteños come from all over the city to eat here. You’ll need to book 6 months or more ahead of your visit. And if you do manage to book a table for dinner – don’t eat lunch!
Visit San Telmo.
This historic district used to be quite grungy, but it’s been gentrified now and there are enough bars, restaurants and boutiques to keep anyone happy. If you visit on a Sunday afternoon there’s an extensive market - It spans more than 10 blocks - selling knick-knacks, handicrafts and antiques. You’ll also see street performers and street food stalls – but it’s very crowded – so you may prefer to visit during the week to explore the area when it’s quieter.
Embrace Tango.
There are plenty of places in Buenos Aires where you can have dinner while you watch a tango show. But I recommend a visit to a milonga – traditional dance halls where porteños of all ages come to practice their skill. You don’t have to dance – you can sit with a drink and just soak up the atmosphere.
Explore Puerto Madero.
This former dockland area has a bit of everything. It has skyscrapers and luxurious offices. five-star hotels and museums and art centres. It has a view of the river and a waterfront. And here you’ll find some of the most renowned restaurants in the city, one next to the other. Puerto Madero is one of the most modern districts in the city, but a visit here is also to understand its historic port origins.
Visit Teatro Colon.
This is Argentina's most important cultural building and one of the most respected opera houses in the world, on par with La Scala in Milan, the Opéra Garnier in Paris, or the Royal Opera House in London. Entering there and experiencing a music concert is undoubtedly an unforgettable experience for any music lover. The guided tour of its building - which took 20 years to build - is also a walk in itself: the main hall is one of the largest in the world. If you’re a music lover, try to visit BA in the opera or dance season.
Go Book Shopping.
Ateneo Grand Bookstore is the largest in South America and the building was originally the Grand Splendid Theatre. Its early 20th-century decoration remains intact: you'll see staircases with original railings and a huge dome with frescoes. And of course there’s a fantastic range of books. It's probably the most beautiful bookstore you've ever visited.
As you can guess, I’m a massive fan of Buenos Aires. But if you’re not sure whether Argentina's the right country for you, please do get in touch for a chat. I’ve travelled extensively around South America, so I’m well placed to recommend the perfect destination(s) for your holiday.
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